Pinot Grigio seems to have overtaken Chardonnay as the high profile, high demand wine in the consciousness of the majority of British wine drinkers.

What has historically been considered a relatively unremarkable white grape variety has captured the imagination.

In the hands of a good winemaker, Pinot Grigio produces a crisp dry white wine with balanced ripeness of fruit and acidity and a touch of spicy, grape character reminiscent of lychees without the sweetness.

The best examples of the variety come from the Alsace region of North East France where it is known as Pinot Gris and produces both dry and sweet white wines of impressive complexity and character.

While Pinot Grigio’s popularity is rooted in the Italian version of the wine, the grape is now widely grown partly as a result of its versatility. Although there appears to be far more Pinot Grigio in bottle than has ever left the vineyard.

There are widely held suspicions that some of the lesser examples contain relatively little if any Pinot Grigio itself.

New World offerings can be rather fuller, softer and sweeter than European wines, a characteristic in common with many New World Rieslings.

Our favourite Pinot Grigio this week were the Southbank Estate East Coast Pinot Grigio 2007 (£7.99 Majestic) which is an exception that proves the rule with its zesty, bouncy fruit that has a classy reserve and finesse.

Berrys' new Pinot Grigio (£7.95 Berry Brothers) is a classic example of a very good Italian Pinot Grigio with a fresh, lively almost crunchy grape fruit and clean dry finish.

There are some delicious alternatives to Pinot Grigio about such as Domaine Sainte Rose 'La Nuit Blanche' Roussanne 2007 (£9.99 Majestic). An attractive honeyed melon nose, with a depth of peach fruit and hints of acacia blossom and hazelnuts precedes a smooth, creamy flavour with a twist of lemon zest edging the ripe peach and melon fruit with a lingering nutty oily, creamy finish.

Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon Blanc 2008 (£9.19 widely available), has classic gooseberry and grass tones with a zesty reserve that lingers on the palate.

Château Bonnet Blanc 2007 Entre-Deux-Mers (£6.99 Tesco, Sainsbury’s, everywine.co.uk) is a lovely, fruity everyday white with a dry finish that goes equally well on its own or with food.

Or perhaps some classy pink fizz like Reichsrat von Buhl Spatburgunder Rose Sekt 2006 (£13.95 The Wine Society) is a delicious dry rose sparkler made with the classic Pinot Noir variety.

Green Point Sparkling Rose Vintage 2005 (£13.99) is a fine Australian sparkling Rose form The Moet & Chandon stable. fraise de bois nose with a creamy edge, delicious fine mousse with lingering wild strawberry and vanilla tones with a biscuit finish.

If you prefer red then The Society's Exhibition Julienas 2007 (£7.50 The Wine Society) has a ripe, raspberry and strawberry fruit flavour in a light style for a red or La Crema Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir 2006 (£15.99 Waitrose) is a more complex characterful red with a red fruit of the forest nose and a palate of cherry and plum.

Rioja 'Single Vineyard' 2006 Ramon Bilbao (£7.99 Majestic) is a lovely damson, plum dense dark aspect to this ripe concentrated red that throbs with summer ripe plums and damsons with a deft touch of soft tannin.

Marques de la Concordia Crianza (£7.99 Majestic) is a good classic style Rioja, warm, satisfying and easy to drink.