The Shy Horse in Chessington is a proper country pub with a menu more creative than standard 'gastropub' fare.

I was struck by the welcoming atmosphere and friendly staff when I first walked in.

There were wooden beams in the ceiling, logs burning in an open fire and soft lighting used to great effect, especially in one cosy alcove that seated six.

It was quite busy for just 6.30pm on a weekday, a very good sign for a pub that’s not in the middle of town.

First off: drinks menu. The Shy Horse specialise in British gins, with favourites like Hendrick’s and Gordon’s vying for attention with Adnams, Warner Edwards, Williams, and Chase.

There was also a very comprehensive wine list featuring new world and European wines paired with food from the menu.

I can’t bluff knowing anything about wine; I ordered a St Peter’s Without (an alcohol-free ale) and my boyfriend had a ginger and lemongrass mocktail.

The St Peter’s Without, very malty, was one of the nicest ales I’ve ever had – alcohol free or otherwise – and I lived in a town where ‘the ale trail’ was the only winter entertainment.

The ginger and lemongrass was predominately pineapple-ly, with a kick.

It was a good idea to have such an interesting alcohol-free menu in a pub most people drive to; at this point I’d be happy to recommend it on the drink choices alone.

Next was the appetiser, coarse pork & Madeira pâté and duck liver parfait, served with Bramley apple butter, baby gherkins and rustic bread.

My boyfriend described the pork pâté as ‘earthy’ and said, “It definitely tastes homemade, it’s nice enough to eat without bread.”

Wednesday was pie night, although there were specials and an a la carte menu offering the usual suspects often with original twists, like the stuffed mushroom, asparagus, dauphinoise potato and red wine jus with the British venison steak.

Both of us were happy to have the pie menu; my boyfriend had a steak and ale and I had the roasted vegetable tart.

The carrots that came on the side seemed to be have been subtly marinated and were delicious, with a smokey-sweet flavour.

The pastry was also lovely, mine had thyme in it too which worked so well baked into the crust.

The vegetable filling in the tart was too garlicky for my taste, but still enjoyable.

I had enough room for a dessert and went for the vegan treacle and pecan tart. It was nice, a small portion designed to be something light to complement a coffee.

Like most people, I prefer more indulgent and calorific puddings, so maybe I’ll try another vegan offering - coconut panna cotta - next time.

Sophie Jones was a guest of The Shy Horse, in Leatherhead Road, Chessington, on March 14.