From around 10.00am, plumes of smoke waft over the top of Surrey Street, carrying with them a tantalizing aroma of charcoal and spice.

This is George Whatle cooking up his amazing jerk chicken that he serves alongside rice and peas, curried goat, peppered steak, fried fish, dumplings, plantains and other delicious West Indian dishes.

Having enjoyed a dish or two of Georges food herself, and having heard snippets of stories concerning campaigns to bring him back to the market and an inspirational fight back to health, Sarah Milne thought it time she uncovered some of George’s ‘Surrey Street secrets’ for herself.

George has been cooking on Surrey Street for 11 years and has customers who have eaten his food every single lunch time since his first day. He was born in London and moved to Jamaica when he was seven. It was here he developed his passion for food. His father, a chef, taught him to cook when he was seven. George returned to the UK in 1992 and first worked as a barber.

He wanted people to experience his food so set up his stall on Surrey Street in 2003. In 2007, he lost his beloved father and couldn’t face work. However, a Guardian campaign showed him how loved and missed he was and he returned.

One morning in 2010, George was setting up his stoves when he suddenly felt excruciating pain. He collapsed and was taken to hospital where he learned he had suffered a brain aneurism.

George needed two life saving operations and still has a shunt draining excess fluid from his brain. Severe strokes left George unable to walk, talk or remember someones name for more than two minutes but, with intensive therapies and a lot of determination, he recovered and returned to the market a year later.

Surrey Street traders and customers supported him all the way, visiting him in hospital and bringing him fruit from the market. George says; "The market has become a family for me. We get along and everyone loves me and respects me. I wouldn’t leave here to work anywhere else."

George’s surgery left him partially blind and his limited sight is deteriorating. Although he says could cook with his eyes shut, he has to be realistic. He is strict about finishing work at 2pm, although always sells out of food by then anyway. He serves around 100 portions every day. George is one of the few market traders who isn’t an avid weather watcher; "If it is raining it’s [the food] gone. If it is hot it’s gone. If it is snowing, it’s gone."

Customer, Linden, explains that is because George "puts a little bit extra," into his food. What that extra is remains a family secret that he isn’t prepared to share. Someone who does know is George’s son, a chef in Jamaica. If a time comes that George can no longer work he’ll be calling him to come and take over.

George wouldn’t reveal his age either. He did share that his birthday is May 11th, the same day Bob Marley died so he feels a closeness to the singer.

Whatever his age, George looks amazing for all he has been through. His secret; "Good food and the right amount of work, not too much." Well, we certainly know where to go to get good food!

 

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