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Reykjavik: Cool world
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| The Blue Lagoon spa, Reyjkanes peninsula |
Head to the Icelandic capital for a special long-weekend destination.
While Iceland may not be the obvious first choice for a long weekend, if you are looking for breathtaking natural phenomena, adventure activities, or even a peaceful city break, it's got the lot.
To relax and unwind after your flight, head to the outdoor geothermal Blue Lagoon spa, not far from the airport. The water is too shallow for swimming, and the short walk from the changing rooms to the spa a bit nippy to say the least, but once you're shoulder-deep in 37 degree milky blue water surrounded by snow, worries seem to drift away.
If they don't, you can always slip into the sauna, try a cleansing silica face mask, have a massage or sip a trademark blue-coloured cocktail as well.
I was so relaxed I could have nodded off. Luckily, I came round in time enjoy a light lunch of lobster soup, salad and chocolate pudding in the restaurant overlooking the lagoon, before a short drive into Reykjavik.
Although it is the country's capital city (and the world's most northerly), Reykjavik is nowhere near the size of London - or even Canterbury - with a population of only 115,000.
In a compact centre, it is hard to get lost. If you do, just look for Hallgrimskirkja - the largest church in the country - which dominates the skyline.
Named after the religious poet Hallgrimur Petursson, it is Reykjavik's most familiar landmark. Although its modern outer form is perhaps more interesting than the sparse interior, it is worth going inside to see the imposing pipe organ and - if you don't mind heights - the tower offers panoramic views of the city.
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| The Stokkur Geysir, Thingvellir National Park |
Within a 10-minute stroll is the harbour where new fishing trawlers nestle side-by-side with old black whaling vessels. Nearby lies a metal sculpture of a longboat, and you can imagine just how difficult it must have been for the Vikings - battling against the waves in small wooden boats.
In the city centre, it's easy to pass an hour in the main pedestrianised street of Austurstraeti by wandering round the small shops or sitting in a cafe.
But if you want more culture, you might like to head to Reykjavik Art Museum, or visit Austurvollur - a square believed to be the original centre of the city, and which now hosts the rather unremarkable parliament building.
While Reykjavik's attractions - which include several museums and a theatre - can easily keep you occupied for two or three days, Iceland has even more to offer if you venture inland.
Just a few miles away from the capital is the town of Hafnarfjordur - a great place for a day trip with children. It is said to have one of the richest elf and spirit populations in Iceland, and you can even join a tour and visit their secret homes.
According to our guide - who looked fairly elvish herself in a red pointy hat - engineers on a recent building project consulted the spirits before they started work. Being accomodating types, the otherworldly inhabitants agreed to move their home to another rock so the development could go ahead.
Heading east from Reykjavik, you can follow the Golden Circle to look at some of the country's physical features: Thingvellir National Park, with an impressive rift valley caused by tectonic plate movement, Stokkur Geysir and Gullfoss (Golden Falls).
The original geyser, Geysir (the Gusher) - after which all others are named - hasn't erupted naturally for more than 40 years. Nearby Strokkur (the Churn), which spouts every few minutes some 20m and more into the air, is said to be less dramatic but still breathtaking.
A short drive away is the gigantic thundering waterfall of Gullfoss. If you dare, take the path along its edge to get a closer look - but watch out for the spray (and the ice underfoot in winter).
If you feel a bit peckish after all the fresh air, or just want somewhere to dry off, the cafe at the top of the gorge does hot and cold snacks including a tasty traditional lamb and vegetable stew. It also sells clothing and interesting souvenirs, such as reindeer horn cutlery.
Another way to experience the great Icelandic outdoors is by ski-dooing (snowmobiling). Although it can be pricey, racing across a glacier during a blizzard is an exhilarating experience. Unfortunately the excitement - and the cold - got a bit too much for me and I fainted.
I woke to find myself lying in the snow with two Icelandic faces peering down at me, and was driven back to base in a 4x4 to be revived with a raw tomato and some lemon-flavoured water, though a hot chocolate might have worked just as well!
A more leisurely way to see the natural landscape is to trek on horseback. Early settlers brought horses to Iceland and today there is a ban on imports and exports to prevent the spread of disease.
Short and stocky, Islandshest are reckoned to be a mild-tempered breed so even if you've never ridden before, you soon feel at ease. Some horses on Ishestar Riding Tours know the route so well you just sit back to enjoy the view.
As relaxing as it was, after an hour or so in the saddle there was nothing more I wanted to do than head back to the Blue Lagoon - but alas the hotel spa had to do.
The roaring fire and comfortable armchairs at 101 Hotel are just what you want after a day exposed to the elements, but the hotel is far from traditional. Trendy, bright and airy, the hotel is named for the postcode of central Reykjavik and its location could not be better for exploring the city. The food and the friendliness of staff also cannot be faulted.
Generally speaking, Icelandic food is fresh and wholesome and, as you might expect of an island, fish and seafood feature prominently on menus.
A fine place to sample them is Seafood Cellar, housed in the basement of the tourist information office. Its pan-Asian menu is delicious, with eel, crab and lobster prepared in various ways - including teriyaki and sashimi - as well as hare, pigeon and (strangely) kangaroo.
Reykjavik is feted for its nightlife and there is no shortage of bars. If you are overwhelmed by choice, a 'Nightlife Friend' will show you round.
A popular haunt is said to be the corrugated iron-covered Kaffibarinn, which Blur's Damon Albarn partly owns. Whether you want a quiet place to chat or a more lively haunt for dancing, you won't go far to find it.
By Anna Farley
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